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As we headed towards a raging Clavey Falls, I took a deep breath and gripped my paddle with white knuckles. During the biggest runoff in a decade on the Tuolumne, the steepest drop on the state’s wildest river looked like the watery end of the world. But it was definitely too late to go back.
“Forward, forward, forward!” screamed our guide over the water’s roar. We pulled our paddles furiously even though obeying the order ruled out hanging onto the raft for dear life. Hearts pounding, we dropped off the edge. The boat rocked about madly and one paddler nearly swam before the crew pulled him back from the brink.
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Terror turned to triumph moments later as we reached the safety of a calm eddy, the roughest rapid of the trip behind us. “All right, woo-hoo, huzzah!” cried my shipmates. I shared the sentiment but was too winded to join in.
Though far from an expert, I’ve enjoyed rafting perhaps a dozen runs on Sierra Nevada rivers over the years. My trips along the Tuolumne always took a different form, though. I had climbed atop Yosemite’s Lyell Glacier where the river originates and hiked beside the Tuolumne for dozens of miles. Yet I always knew I’d have to raft “The T” someday.
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That occasion finally arrived when friends and I joined a two-day, 18-mile run on the main segment of the Tuolumne, from Meral’s Pool to Ward’s Ferry. The outing began with multiple Class 4 (challenging) rapids including Rock Garden, Nemesis, Sunderland’s Chute and Hackamack Hole.
Like many rafters, we spent a night camping beside a sandy beach near Clavey Falls. Those who go with a guided group may enjoy a decadent meal of steak, salmon, potatoes, hot green veggies, beer and wine, as we did. We rafted rough water but hardly roughed it. The river sang us to sleep.
After an equally hearty breakfast, the main event awaited. Clavey Falls, the run’s only Class 5 (experts only) rapid, tends to lodge in boaters’ memories and not just because of the adrenaline rush it produces. The confluence of the Clavey and Tuolumne rivers embody nature’s power which shaped this beautiful canyon.
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The second half of the journey features Class 3 (moderate) and more Class 4 rapids like Gray’s Grindstone and Hell’s Kitchen, providing boaters with thrills and also a chance to take in the canyon’s scenery and wildlife. Cedars, alders, willows, oaks, pines and plenty of manzanita make for pleasant viewing. Black bears, coyote, hawks and even mountain lions show themselves occasionally.
Everyone was sorry to reach the take out at Ward’s Ferry Bridge. “If you liked the Main T, you’ll love the Upper T,” another rafter commented. Just like that, I knew I had to go back, and a month later I did.
With nine miles of continuous Class 4 and Class 5 rapids, the Cherry Creek/Upper Tuolumne route is the most challenging guided raft run in the United States. Wetsuits and life vests are mandatory, as are swimming tests across the icy, fast flowing river and back. The exercise will kick-start your heart for the workout that awaits downstream.
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The Guillotine, Jawbone, Unknown Soldier and Coffin Rock rapids bear fearful names but the more innocuous-sounding Mushroom, Flat Rock Falls and Lewis’ Leap are actually more hazardous. Many parties disembark and walk to avoid these and especially Lumsden Falls, a Class 6 rapid (potentially deadly even for experts) and the river’s most dangerous spot.
Still, that leaves plenty of whitewater and this run felt like a non-stop thrill ride with more exciting rapids than all my previous rafting trips combined.
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The Upper T averages an amazing 100-foot drop per mile but a middle section known as the Miracle Mile drops a phenomenal 200 feet. By this point, our guide and four-member crew was working well in sync, thankfully. Only a miracle could get a raft with less-than-expert guidance through this mile, a slalom course of raging rapids and countless rocky obstacles.
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The memorable outing ended with a well-deserved lunch and a congratulatory champagne toast the rafters and guides shared. I was surprised to learn that guides who’ve completed this challenge hundreds of times still consider every run a special occasion.
As a frequent Yosemite visitor, I drove beside the Tuolumne on Highway 120 for 20 years before finally rafting this gem. I’m not going to wait nearly so long to take the plunge again.
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If you go
Fitness: Most people in good health will enjoy rafting the Main Tuolumne. Outfitters suggest a minimum age of 13. A higher level of fitness and strong swimming skills are required for the Cherry Creek/Upper Tuolumne run.
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Season
Rafting conditions generally run from mid-spring until mid-fall, depending on the year.
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Outfitters
Rafting the Tuolumne independently requires a high degree of expertise, thousands of dollars worth of gear and a Forest Service permit. Those lacking any of these should consider these guide companies. Expect to pay around $300 to $400 per day.
All-Outdoors California Whitewater Rafting